Manufacture of imitation crimean or persian fur goods.



No. 682,557. Patented Sept. Io, I9Dl. s. LEWIN. MANUFACTURE OF IMITATION CRIMEAN 0B PERSIAN FUR GOODS.

(Application filed Bar. 15, 1901.)

(No Model.)

.wnorod-mo..wnsumarou a c .NITED STATES PATENT OFFIcE.

SIMON LEWIN, OF BERLIN, GERMANY, ASSIGNOR TO ANTON d7 ALFRED LEHMANN AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT, OF SAME PLACE.

MANUFACTURE OF lMlTATION CRIMEAN R PERSIAN FUR GOODS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 682,557, dated SeptemberIO, 1901.

Application filed March 15,1901. Serial No. 51,327. (No specimens-l To all whmn it may concern:

Be it known that I, SIMON LEWIN, manufacturer, aresidentof Berlin, Germany, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Imitation Crimean or Persian Fur Goods; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

This invention has for its object to impart the appearance of Crimean or Persian furs to ordinary smooth-haired and other skins. Attempts have previously been made to attain this object by dividing the hair of the skin into layers on the hide and then rolling the several layers in a wet state, from the points of the hair toward the roots, around thin rods and allowing them to dry in this position. The curls produced in this manner and arranged in straight rows were then intended to have their positions changedin irregularly varying directions by sewing the skin in a sewingmachine in suitably curved lines. This method, however, has not been a success in practice. It is not possible according thereto to form the hair of the skin into real curls, the curls obtained-extending only to the endportion of the hair, while the portion nearest the roots is not aifected, since the roll ing up of the hair close to the hide is prevented by the hide itself. Moreover, sewing by means of a sewing-machine proved to be a most unsatisfactory means of attaining an irregular variation in the direction. These disadvantages are obviated according to this invention by cutting the fur to be treated into narrow strips before rolling up the hair, and then in the case of each strip after brush ing the hair transversely and wetting the strip rolling the hair on a rod in such a way that not only is the hair bent sharply from the ends to the roots transversely to the length of the strip, but the strip of hide is also curved and is tightly drawn around the rod, whereupon the strip of hide and the hair thereof are finally dried in this position with or without the aid of artificial heating. The

strips of skin prepared in this manner are then joined together again in any suitable mannertoformacontinuous skin. Therolling of the hair with the hide cutinto strips for that purpose has the advantage that the hair is rolled to the roots and also at the roots, as it is bent more or less sharply from its normal direction at the point where itis sues from the hide. Since the hide is also rolled and its hairy surface is shortened, the hair, which is then fixed in a new position by the drying process, is raised more or less, when the upper or hairy surface of the skin is again extended and the slight variations of the hair from the parallel position, which are always present before rolling up, are sufficient to mix the curls produced in the most varied manner when the strips of skin are extended without its being necessary to effect an irregular variation in position by artificial means.

Referring to the drawings, in which like parts are similarly designated, Figure 1 is a plan View of the strip of skin b, having the hair Ct brushed to one side. Fig. 2 is an end View of the same; Fig. 3, an end View showing the method of starting the curl around a rod; 'Fig. 4, the completed curl. Fig. 5 shows the hair laid over the two sides of the strip of hide. Fig. 6 shows method of folding the strip as shown in Fig. 5 to start the curl on a rod; Fig. 7, the completed curl on the rod. Fig. 8 is a plan and Fig. 9 an end view of a portion of a long strip, showing the hair laid alternately on one side and then omthe other; and Fig. 10 shows this arrangement curled on two rods. I

The process hereinbefore described may be carried out in various ways. According to one method the skin to be treated is carefully out into strips of suitable width, care being taken not to damage the hair. In the case of each strip b, as shown in Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings, the hair a is brushed flat transversely to the length of the strip either to one side, Fig. 2, or from the middle to both sides, Fig. 5, and is preferably thoroughly wetted, together with the hide. Thereupon the strip 19 is preferably laid on a strip of paper a, Fig. 3, the end of which is folded over the end of the hair, and the paper strip is rolled, with the strip of skin, around a thin too rod from the ends of the hair to the roots. The projecting portion of the paper strip allows the roll to be drawn very tight. In Fig. 4 the hair is shown in cross-section rolled upon the rod; but in reality the position of the layers is much closer and their curvature is relatively sharper than for the sake of clearness is shown in the drawings. If the hair a, of the strip b is parted in the middle, Fig. 5, and is brushed to both sides, the two fringes a. of the strip, together with the two halves of the hide, are folded one over the other, with a stripjof paper or the like between them, Fig. 6. Then another strip of paper 0 is folded over, as in the previous case, Fig. 3, and the whole is rolled on the rod d, Fig. '7. The strip of hide Z) thus receives a double curve, with the result that the bending of the hair at its roots varies throughout the entire width of the strip, so that when the strip is extended after the drying a sufficient variation in the direction of the curls is attained.

In rolling a strip a commencement can of course be made at the strip of hide or after parting thehairin the middle, Fig. 5. Rolling can be effected from the end of one fringe to the strip of hide and from there to the end of the other fringe. Double curl-strips can also be prepared by brushing the hair sidewise in the case of each strip in tufts of the entire width of the strip alternately to the right and to the left, as shown in Fig. Sin plan and in Fig. 9 in section, instead of parting it in the middle. The folding and rolling of the hair can then be effected in a manner similar to that hereinbefore described with reference to a strip with hair parted in the middle, Figs. 6 and '7, by folding the two rows of tufts of the strip one over the other with a sheet of paper between them and rolling up. It is preferable, however, to roll the rows of tufts to the right and to the left independently toward the middle on separate rods, with a strip of paper inserted between each rod and the hair, the strip of hide and the free edge of one of the strips of paper being drawn as tight as possible around the two rolls thus formed, Fig. 10. After drying the several tufts of hair of the strips so treated form perfectly isolated curls. Curls so perfectly isolated cannot be obtained by the methods hereinbefore described with reference to Figs. 1 to 7, inclusive.

Strips of curls prepared as described can be again united by sewing them together along their edges or by sewing them close together on a backing of suitable material. When simple strips of curls are used, care should be taken by suitably changing the direction in which the strips are sewed on that the position of the curls changes as in natural fur. In some cases the strips of curls may be cut into short pieces, which are cemented on a suitable backing by means of india-rubber solution or the like in such a manner that the direction of the single curls formed by the hairs of the pieces is suitably varied. the case of strips having isolated curls produced as described with reference to Figs. 8, 9, and 10 the several curls cluster closely together Without mixing together when the strips are sewed together, as described in the preceding paragraph, and the small Variations of the tufts from the parallel direction that occur before rolling up are sufficient to attain a perfectly irregular change in the direction of the curls, such as is peculiar to many kinds of real Crimean or Persian fur.

Having now particularly described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. The herein-describedmethod,wl1ich consists in cutting the skin into strips, and, after wetting, laying the hair transversely of said strip, curling the hair by rolling the same from the tips to the roots, and the strip of skin into a tight roll, allowing the curls to set and uniting the strips in any suitable or desired manner, for the purpose set forth.

2. Theherein-described n1ethod,whichconsists in cutting the skin into strips, and, after wetting, laying the hair transversely of the strip, curling the hair by rolling the same together with a strip of paper from the tips to the roots and the said strip of skin into a tight roll, allowing the curls to set and uniting the strips in any suitable or desired manner, for the purpose set forth.

3. The herein-described method ,which consists in cutting the skin into strips, and, after wetting, laying the hair in different directions transversely of the strip, curling the hair by rolling the same from the tips to the roots and the strip of skin into a tight roll, allowing the curls to set and uniting the strips in any suitable or desired manner, for the purpose set forth.

-.t. Theherein-described method,which consists in cutting the skin into strips, and, after wetting, laying the hairin different directions transversely of the strip, curling the hair by rolling the same together with a strip of paper from the tips to the roots and the strip of skin into a tight roll, allowing the curls to set and uniting the strips in any suitable or desired manner, for the purpose set forth.

5. The herein-described method,wl1ich consists in cutting the skin into strips, and, after wetting, laying the hair transversely of said strip, curling the hair by rolling the samefrom the tips to the roots and the strip of skin into a tight roll, allowing the curls to set and unit ing the strips in any suitable manner so as to vary the direction of lay of the curls, for the purposes set forth.

6. Theherein-describedinethod,whichcon sists in cutting the skin into strips, and, after wetting, laying the hair transversely of said strip, curling the hair by rolling the same from the tips to the roots and the strip of skin into a tight roll, allowing the curls to set and unit ing the strips in any suitable manner on a textile backing so as to vary the direction of lay of the curls, for the purposes set forth.

7. The herein-described method,which consists in cutting the skin into strips, and, after wetting, laying the hair in tufts alternately in opposite directions transversely of said strip, curling the tufts by rolling the same from the tips to the roots and the strip of skin into a tight roll, allowing the curls to set and uniting the strips in any suitable or desired manner, for the purposes set forth.

8. The herein-described method, which consists in cutting the skin into strips, and, after wetting, laying the hair in tufts alternately in opposite directions transversely of said strip, curling the tufts by rolling the same together with a strip of paper from the tips to the roots and the strip of skin into a tight roll, allowing the curls to set and uniting the strips in any suitable or desired manner, for the purposes set forth.

9. The herein-described method,whieh consists in cutting the skin into strips, laying the hair, after wetting, in different directions transversely of said strip, folding the strip of skin flesh side out, curling the hair by rolling the same from the tips to the roots and the folded strip of skin into a tight roll, al-

lowing the curls to set, unfolding, and uniting the strips in any suitable or desired manner, for the purposes set forth.

10. The herein-described method,which consists in cutting the skin into strips, laying the hair, after wetting, in differentdirections transversely of said strip, placing a strip of paper thereon curling the hair by folding the strip flesh side out and rolling the hair from thetips to the roots together with an outer strip of paper, and the folded strip of'skin into a tight roll, allowing the curls to set and finally unfolding the strips and uniting the same in any suitable or desirable manner, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

11. Imitation Persian or Crimean fur, consisting of strips of a suitable skin having the hair thereon curled, said strips united so as to vary the lay of the curls substantially as in the said Crimean or Persian furs, substantially as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name in pres ence of two subscribing witnesses.

SIMON LEWIN. Witnesses:

J OHANNES HEIN, HENRY HASPER. 

